Scaling Back Up: A Science-Based Guide to Climbing After Shoulder Surgery

February 6, 2026

If you’ve undergone shoulder stabilization surgery, you know the “waiting game” is the hardest part of the approach. For climbers in Boulder, Lafayette, and Longmont, being sidelined while the rest of the crew is at the local crag or the gym is a mental battle.

Traditionally, surgeons rely on a six-month calendar as a green light. However, at Mend, we know that time alone doesn’t tell the whole story of your shoulder’s readiness. Research shows that athletes who skip objective, criteria-based testing are 4.85 times more likely to experience a reinjury.

For climbers—who rely on extreme range of motion and explosive “deadpoints”—relying on a calendar just isn’t enough.

The Reality of Returning to the Wall

Before you eye that project at the crag, let’s look at the benchmarks for shoulder stabilization:

Return Rates: Roughly 80% of athletes return to their sport after anterior stabilization.
Performance Levels: About 72.6% reach their prior level of play.
The Safety Gap: Athletes who pass a specific “test battery” see recurrence rates drop to just 5%, compared to 22% for those who don’t.

The Climber’s Test Cluster: Are You Ready to Send?

Our Return to Sport (RTS) framework moves through a “3 P” progression: Performance, Practice, and Play. Here is how we measure that progress using objective, science-based tests.

1. The Mental Game (Psychological Readiness)

Climbing is as much mental as physical. Hesitation due to fear of reinjury will impair your movement.

SIRSI & WOSI Tools: These measure your confidence and “kinesiophobia” (fear of movement).
The Goal: You should score >90 for a return to practice and >95 for full, unrestricted climbing.

2. Strength & Stability Benchmarks

Can your shoulder develop and resist force effectively during a lock-off or reach?

Isometric Strength: Using a handheld dynamometer, your involved side should be within 10% of your healthy side.
ASH (Athletic Shoulder) Test: This measures force development in “I, Y, and T” positions—critical for wide compression moves or high-step reaches.

3. Functional Endurance & Power

CKCUEST: In a plank position, you’ll reach across to tap your hands. Aiming for 21 touches in 15 seconds proves you can handle weight-bearing on the wall.
One-Arm Hop Test (OAHT): Reserved for the 6-month mark, this measures explosive power for dynos. There should be less than a 4.4s difference between sides.
PSET (Posterior Shoulder Endurance Test): This measures rotator cuff stamina. The goal is 47 seconds for men and 46 seconds for women.

The 4–6 Month Progression: From Rehab to the Redpoint

Bridging the gap between clinical physical therapy and your first post-op send requires hitting specific benchmarks.

Month 4: The Performance Foundation

Strength Targets: Achieve an Isometric LSI within 10% for internal/external rotation.
Stability Marker: Pass the CKCUEST with ≥ 21 touches.
Mental Check: SIRSI/WOSI scores should be trending above 90.

Month 5: Force Development & Endurance

The “I, Y, T” Benchmarks: Use the ASH Test to measure force production for overhead and wide-reaching positions.
Wall Introduction: Begin “Practice” on vertical or slab terrain where you can control the amount of loading in the arm. It is better to use larger holds that you can confidently hold onto. This early phase is about building confidence.

Month 6+: Explosive Power & Graded Play

Power Test: Perform the One-Arm Hop Test (OAHT) to ensure your shoulder can handle impact.
Dynamic Stability: Pass the Upper Quarter Y-Balance Test (UQ-YBT) within 10% symmetry.
Graded Play: Progress from vertical practice to overhanging terrain, gradually increasing intensity. You are making your way towards full unrestricted climbing. As you build control, strength and confidence, you will start to make bigger moves and hold difficult positions for longer.

Expert Shoulder Rehab in Boulder County

Passing these tests doesn’t mean you should immediately jump on the hardest thing you could try. It means you have the capacity to begin graded exposure toward climbing as hard as you ever have.

If you are recovering from shoulder surgery and want to ensure you are in that 5% “low-risk” category, schedule an evaluation with the climbing experts at Mend. We provide the objective data and specialized coaching that Boulder County climbers need to get back to the wall safely.

Click Here to schedule your next appointment with the experts at MEND

Citation:

Otley T, Myers H, Lau BC, Taylor DC. Return to Sport After Shoulder Stabilization Procedures: A Criteria-Based Testing Continuum to Guide Rehabilitation and Inform Return-to-Play Decision Making. Arthrosc Sports Med Rehabil. 2022;4(1):e237-e246. Published 2022 Jan 28. doi:10.1016/j.asmr.2021.09.039