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Does Injury To A Climber’s Shoulder Determine Function?

By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS Does it matter if you hurt your labrum? Does it matter if you have worn out your biceps tendon? The answer might surprise you. Often people think that identifiable injury to their body means they need surgery or that they will not be able to climb as hard or...

Why Your Shoulder Hurts after Jiu Jitsu (And When to Seek Help)

By: Rani Helvey-Byers, PT, DPT, OCS The shoulder is the second most commonly injured site in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu.1 If you train regularly, there’s a good chance you’ve dealt with shoulder pain at some point. The higher rate of injury in the shoulder stems from its being an incredibly mobile joint – a fact that makes...

The Top 4 Exercises For Bulletproof Shoulder In Climbers

By: Rani Helvey-Byers, PT, DPT, OCS As climbers, we like to torture our shoulders by placing them in extreme positions and then asking them to generate an immense amount of force in said positions. Because of this, we can’t just train our shoulders in one plane. If we want resilient shoulders, we need to at...

Getting Climbers Back To Their Sport After Shoulder Injury

Shoulder pain is a very common issue for rock climbers, largely because climbing places high and repetitive demands on the shoulder’s muscles, tendons, and joint structures. The most frequent causes include rotator cuff problems (such as tendinopathy, strain, or tears), subacromial impingement, and biceps tendinopathy — injuries that arise from both acute sudden movements and chronic...

Recovering from Acute Shoulder Instability

By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS A good functioning shoulder is essential to a climber’s performance. When the shoulder is healthy, reaching for holds and holding strenuous positions feels secure. Whether you’re yarding on a deep lock-off at the gym, pressing out a corner in Eldo, or snatching holds during big deadpoints while in Rocky...