The fingers undergo a tremendous amount of force while rock climbing, particularly when crimping. But which fingers take the most force? A study by Vigouroux and colleagues used a biomechanical model to analyze the forces exerted on the fingers of climbers while they were attempting to exert maximal four-finger force in a crimp grip. The...
Low back pain is a frequent challenge for athletes who place high demands on their bodies, especially gymnasts, CrossFit athletes, golfers, climbers, and those involved in team sports. These athletes often combine heavy loading, explosive power, rotation, and end-range positions — all of which require the spine to transfer force efficiently. When mobility, strength, or...
By Dr. Ian Nay, PT DPT OCS Overview Headaches are extremely common in our population, especially in athletes and people who spend a lot of time on the computer or phone. Examples of athletes who may have these symptoms are football lineman who are looking up constantly, cyclists, CrossFitters and weightlifters who perform overhead motions...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS A good functioning shoulder is essential to a climber’s performance. When the shoulder is healthy, reaching for holds and holding strenuous positions feels secure. Whether you’re yarding on a deep lock-off at the gym, pressing out a corner in Eldo, or snatching holds during big deadpoints while in Rocky...
The serratus anterior muscle is located on the side of your chest and attaches your scapula to your ribs. The purpose of this muscle is to stabilize the scapula, especially during overhead movements. Its specific actions are scapular upward rotation and protraction which are important movements for many movements in rock climbing. Weakness of the...
How many times have you seen someone whose posture looks like this while belaying? Neck pain is a common in rock climbers. Although climbing itself can lead to neck pain, the most common cause is spending prolonged periods belaying. We refer to this as “belayer’s neck”. Belayer’s neck is a colloquial term to describe a...
The rotator cuff is a group of four muscles that coordinate movement and provide dynamic stability of the shoulder joint. These muscles are crucial for rock climbers who put extreme stresses through their shoulders, often in awkward positions that can cause bone structures to rub or impinge on the rotator cuff muscles. Because of this,...
Dr. Ian Nay, PT, DPT, OCS Shoulder pain is one of the most common musculoskeletal disorders that we see at MEND, and in fact, will affect about 25% of all individuals at some point in their lives (1). Pain-relieving injections such as cortisone or corticosteroids have traditionally been used as a first-line treatment for shoulder...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS Rock climbing, like all other sports, has risk factors that contribute to injury rates. Knowing what factors contribute to added injury risk can help participants build better training programs and potentially reduce future risk of injury. Luckily, researchers have begun to ask these questions and have made progress in...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS How Pulley Injuries Occur: The Biomechanics Your fingers don’t actually contain muscles; they are moved by long tendons (flexor digitorum superficialis and profundus) that originate in your forearm. These tendons run down your fingers through a sheath, held tight to the bone by ligamentous tunnels called pulleys. Think of...
