The pectoralis minor muscle is situated on the front of the chest and attaches the scapula to the rib cage. When this muscle becomes chronically tight it can pull the scapula anteriorly, creating a posture where the shoulders are rounded forward. This posture is often seen in rock climbers and tightness of the pec minor...
Shoulder strength and stability is crucial in rock climbing for both performance and injury prevention. There are many different ways to assess shoulder strength, stability and function. The findings of these assessments can give us insights into right to left imbalances and can tell us which muscle groups we need to target in a rehabilitation...
The serratus anterior muscle is located on the side of your chest and attaches your scapula to your ribs. The purpose of this muscle is to stabilize the scapula, especially during overhead movements. Its specific actions are scapular upward rotation and protraction which are important movements for many movements in rock climbing. Weakness of the...
Pain to the elbow is very common among climbers and is one of the leading causes of time away from the sport. The most likely areas of pain are to the lateral elbow or medial elbow. Keep reading to learn more about the symptoms, causes, and treatment options for elbow pain. Medial epicondylalgia (also...
Pain to the elbow is very common among climbers and is one of the leading causes of time away from the sport. The most likely areas of pain are to the lateral elbow or medial elbow. Keep reading to learn more about the symptoms, causes, and treatment options for elbow pain. Lateral epicondylalgia (also...
Exercise is a powerful pain modulator. This well-established concept has been rigorously studied and trial after trial show that low, moderate, and vigorous exercise provides short term decreases in pain sensitivity. But there is more to it than just performing body movements. Researchers are now looking at how personal expectations and education regarding exercise affects...
Pain from an epiphysial growth plate fracture will likely be located on the dorsal surface of the long finger as pictured.
Tinnitus is a condition where one perceives a ringing sound in one or both ears in the absence of external auditory stimulation. It is most common described as “ringing in my ears”. Tinnitus can be caused by a variety of conditions such as ear infections, Meniere’s disease, vascular diseases, neurological disorders, structural dysfunction within the...
Many abdominal strengthening exercises focus on the concentric phase of contraction. For climbers this is important, but often the abdominals have to activate eccentrically. To review: a concentric contraction occurs when a muscle creates tension while it shortens and an eccentric activation occurs when a muscle creates tension while it lengthens. Think about what your...
Joint stiffness in the thoracic spine can be a significant contributor to neck, upper back, and shoulder pain in rock climbers. The high muscle demands and repetitive pulling down movement of climbing often leads to excessive thoracic kyphosis, internally rotated shoulders, and a forward head position. If left untreated this can lead to long term...