By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS Elbow pain is a common reason rock climbers in Boulder, Lafayette, and Longmont have to take an unwanted “forced rest” from the crag. Whether you’re projecting at The Spot, sessioning at BRC, or hitting the local Front Range sandstone, elbow issues can sideline even the strongest climbers. The most...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS If you’ve undergone shoulder stabilization surgery, you know the “waiting game” is the hardest part of the approach. For climbers in Boulder, Lafayette, and Longmont, being sidelined while the rest of the crew is at the local crag or the gym is a mental battle. Traditionally, surgeons rely on...
Shoulder pain is a very common issue for rock climbers, largely because climbing places high and repetitive demands on the shoulder’s muscles, tendons, and joint structures. The most frequent causes include rotator cuff problems (such as tendinopathy, strain, or tears), subacromial impingement, and biceps tendinopathy — injuries that arise from both acute sudden movements and chronic...
Low back pain is a frequent challenge for athletes who place high demands on their bodies, especially gymnasts, CrossFit athletes, golfers, climbers, and those involved in team sports. These athletes often combine heavy loading, explosive power, rotation, and end-range positions — all of which require the spine to transfer force efficiently. When mobility, strength, or...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS A good functioning shoulder is essential to a climber’s performance. When the shoulder is healthy, reaching for holds and holding strenuous positions feels secure. Whether you’re yarding on a deep lock-off at the gym, pressing out a corner in Eldo, or snatching holds during big deadpoints while in Rocky...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS In rock climbing, your “engine” is actually three separate systems working in concert. Whether you are sticking a desperate dyno or grinding through a multi-pitch day, your body chooses a specific chemical pathway to create Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP)—the molecule that powers every muscle contraction. Each discipline has differing demands...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS Plyometrics are a type of exercise that involve explosive, high-intensity movements and are often used in sports training and rehabilitation programs for many types of overhead athletes, but not often enough for rock climbers. They can be an effective way to improve muscle power, speed, and coordination, and can...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS The sport of rock climbing continues to grow and expand in popularity and participation. With more climbers comes more injuries. For coaches, trainers, and healthcare professionals identifying the injury profile and mechanisms for injury has become an important topic. Knowing what causes injury and who gets the injuries can...
By: John Crawley, PT, DPT, OCS Rock climbing, like all other sports, has risk factors that contribute to injury rates. Knowing what factors contribute to added injury risk can help participants build better training programs and potentially reduce future risk of injury. Luckily, researchers have begun to ask these questions and have made progress in...
Overtraining syndrome (OTS) is a condition that arises from an imbalance between training, recovery, and the body’s ability to adapt. In the context of rock climbing, which is a demanding sport requiring strength, endurance, and mental acuity, recognizing the signs and symptoms of OTS can help to avoid injury and setbacks in reaching goals ....