Returning to rock climbing after an injury or an extended break from the sport can be challenging. Many climbers do too much too quickly and end up re-aggravating their previous injury or causing a new one. While it may seem obvious to “go slow” and return to climbing “gradually”, there is little to no guidance...
The rotator cuff is an essential group of muscles that stabilize the shoulder during climbing movements. These muscles are commonly injured by rock climbing and weakness of the rotator cuff can lead to multiple shoulder pathologies such as impingement (subacromial pain syndrome), biceps tendinopathy, and glenohumeral joint sensitivity. The muscles that we treat most commonly...
The trapezius is a large muscle that extends from the base of the skull, down to the T12 vertebra, and out to the scapula and clavicle. This muscle plays a crucial role in performance and injury prevention for rock climbers. Its function is to stabilize the scapula during shoulder movements such as the pull up,...
The best predictor of whether or not you will get an injury from rock climbing is whether or not you’ve had a climbing injury previously. Having an injury to a particular body region makes you 6 times more likely to have another injury to that region. So the best way to avoid injuries from climbing...
Forearm stretches are one of the most commonly used self-treatment techniques among rock climbers. It would be difficult to be at the climbing gym for more than one hour and not see someone stretching their wrist and forearms. But how effective is this technique for helping people with wrist pain? Research has shown time and...
Finger taping is used frequently among climbers. Tape is used for a variety of reasons including protecting skin, supporting finger joints and connective tissue, and to decrease finger pain while climbing. Although many climbers swear by using tape, the effects of taping are not well researched and the underlying mechanisms are poorly understood. Some researchers...
Fingers are the most commonly injured body part in climbers. Pain to the fingers can be generated by several different structures, making proper diagnosis particularly important for treatment. The most common diagnoses causing finger pain are pulley sprains, flexor tendon injuries, interphalangeal joint irritation, extensor mechanism injuries, and soft tissue injuries. Many factors affect the...
The pectoralis minor muscle is situated on the front of the chest and attaches the scapula to the rib cage. When this muscle becomes chronically tight it can pull the scapula anteriorly, creating a posture where the shoulders are rounded forward. This posture is often seen in rock climbers and tightness of the pec minor...
Shoulder strength and stability is crucial in rock climbing for both performance and injury prevention. There are many different ways to assess shoulder strength, stability and function. The findings of these assessments can give us insights into right to left imbalances and can tell us which muscle groups we need to target in a rehabilitation...
The serratus anterior muscle is located on the side of your chest and attaches your scapula to your ribs. The purpose of this muscle is to stabilize the scapula, especially during overhead movements. Its specific actions are scapular upward rotation and protraction which are important movements for many movements in rock climbing. Weakness of the...