How to Identify a Finger Growth Plate Injury in Youth Rock Climbers
December 10, 2020
Pain from an epiphysial growth plate fracture will likely be located on the dorsal surface of the long finger as pictured.
Shoulder Stability Assessment for Rock Climbers
December 13, 2021
Shoulder strength and stability is crucial in rock climbing for both performance and injury prevention. There are many different ways to assess shoulder strength, stability and function. The findings of these assessments can give us insights into right to left imbalances and can tell us which muscle groups we need to target in a rehabilitation...
The serratus anterior muscle is located on the side of your chest and attaches your scapula to your ribs. The purpose of this muscle is to stabilize the scapula, especially during overhead movements. Its specific actions are scapular upward rotation and protraction which are important movements for many movements in rock climbing. Weakness of the...
As more research about the novel coronavirus COVID-19 is developed, it is important to consider the effects of the disease on the pelvic floor and associated body systems and functions. The implications are both direct, i.e. affecting the cells of the bladder and small intestine, and indirect by disrupting function in the pulmonary system, in...
Women’s hormones and cycles are very sensitive and very complex to understand. Many high intensity or endurance athletes (but not all) will experience irregular or total loss of menstruation which can bring with it consequences to bone density, injury risk, and compromised fertility. Regarding athletic performance through a women’s cycle, a systematic review published in...
Finger Pain in Rock Climbers
January 28, 2022
Fingers are the most commonly injured body part in climbers. Pain to the fingers can be generated by several different structures, making proper diagnosis particularly important for treatment. The most common diagnoses causing finger pain are pulley sprains, flexor tendon injuries, interphalangeal joint irritation, extensor mechanism injuries, and soft tissue injuries. Many factors affect the...
The best predictor of whether or not you will get an injury from rock climbing is whether or not you’ve had a climbing injury previously. Having an injury to a particular body region makes you 6 times more likely to have another injury to that region. So the best way to avoid injuries from climbing...
Are Forearm Stretches Helpful for Wrist Pain in Rock Climbers?
February 15, 2022
Forearm stretches are one of the most commonly used self-treatment techniques among rock climbers. It would be difficult to be at the climbing gym for more than one hour and not see someone stretching their wrist and forearms. But how effective is this technique for helping people with wrist pain? Research has shown time and...
Finger taping is used frequently among climbers. Tape is used for a variety of reasons including protecting skin, supporting finger joints and connective tissue, and to decrease finger pain while climbing. Although many climbers swear by using tape, the effects of taping are not well researched and the underlying mechanisms are poorly understood. Some researchers...
What Women Need To Know About Pain With Sex
March 14, 2022
One of the most frequently asked questions we get as pelvic floor specialists from our female patients is “is it normal that I have pain with sex?” While it is common, it is not and does not have to be accepted as “normal.” According to statistics from the American College of Gynecology (ACOG), 75% of...
