Muscle cramping can be a frustrating and painful consequence of individual and team sport athletic participation leading to decreased sports performance. The internet is filled with reported remedies to cramping from creams to sports drinks. Many aim to resolve possible imbalances of hydration and electrolyte balance (sodium and potassium) from sweating during an athlete’s training...
Team and individual athletes are always looking for an edge prior to their competition or race. The preceding days variable’s including rest, nutrition, training, and exercise are dialed in to create an optimal environment on game or race day. Most Physical Therapists and sports medicine professionals encourage an active dynamic warm up in the hour...
Most climbers are aware of the importance of finger flexor strength. But how strong are your finger EXTENSORS? Finger extensors are the antagonist muscle group to the finger flexors and are critical to providing support and stability. Strengthening this muscle group is key component to a finger rehabilitation program, particularly in rock climbers who put...
Patellofemoral pain, pain around the kneecap, is extremely common and impacts activities such as running, hiking and stairclimbing. In our previous posts on this condition we have discussed the efficacy of exercise in treating this condition. A recent study (Nunes et al, Phys Ther Sport 2019) assessed performance measures correlated with hip muscle strength in...
Many Boulder team and endurance athletes had their respective seasons shortened or cancelled secondary to COVID-19 sending them into an unexpected training season or offseason. Although frustrating, this downtime can be well utilized to prepare for the next training cycle. During a normal year, few athletes reach the end of their seasons without a missed...
Rock climbing is a 3-dimensional sport that challenges every single region of the body. As a result there are countless ways we can train our bodies to improve different aspects of our climbing. So let’s be targeted and efficient with our training. Let’s look at what the research shows are the most important factors that...
When performing near your upper limit, multiple attempts on a single climb is crucial for optimizing sequence and to improve strength specific to that route. In climbing, recovery between individual attempts has a huge impact on climbing performance. The quality and effectiveness of your recovery are just as important as the climb itself. Let’s take...
If we had to pick only one strength training exercise it would be hard to beat a squat variation due to its’ ability to recruit a large percentage of the lower quarter musculature. To be fair, drawbacks of the squat would have to include the significant learning curve to learn the correct exercise movement, as...
Previously it was thought Physical Therapists should withhold strength training from endurance athletes or have athletes perform exercises with high reps (>15) and low weights (30-45% 1 rep max). These incorrect guidelines and prescriptions created insufficient training loads in endurance athletes and even worse led many endurance coaches and athletes to avoid weight training all...
Many high level and recreational runners avoid weight training due to fear of building muscle or bulk which may be detrimental to their performance. On the surface this argument makes sense because a larger runner would have to expend more resources (fuel, oxygen) at at given speed and distance. One of the first flaws in...
